My Time Zone, at high attitude!
After signing of my duties at M/s Broland with 2 of my mates, after 26 months of working without any days off, we put our feet’s at the Chile soil in the port of Valparaiso.
It all started with a horrible experience! We were jailed by the Carabineers (Chilean military police), under charge of the Senator Alliende. This happened when we were passing the border control in the port. We were accused for smuggling “high tec” private goods, like photo equipment, transistor radios and digital watches, all with origin of Japan.
We told them that it was all for personal use, but they were not listening! The only answer we got, was that we had a long jail sentence waiting, if we did not pay a “find” of 3000.USD and with all our personal belonging taken.
That was enough for me! I got really angry and without any fear for the well armed police, I told them my rights as a Swedish citizen! And that was to be contacted by the Embassy in Santiago de Chile. They were laughing and told me that was impossible! So, I told them, nothing is impossible and showed our transit visa to Argentina signed by telegraph message, on the ship. There was a change in attitude, but told us that we would be escorted to the Argentine border, but without our belongings! We all refused to this deal and resulted that we were jailed for another long 5 days and nights, sleeping on the floor like dogs…..
Suddenly on the sixth day, we were told to pack our belongings and to be prepared for a long journey. We were put on a military transport, taking us to the bus station at Santiago de Chile, with destiny to the train station of Los Andes, situated higher up in the mountains.
We were all very happy about this sudden change, but never told us, why? We had to be escorted by a military Police, until the border of Argentine. We agreed!
When entering in this old “guagua” (bus in South America), it was like one of this museum pieces that I seen from the end of the1800th. Will this really work? We wondered. Our military Escort, fully armed, entered first to reserve our seats; the other passengers looked strangely at us.
The bus was finally full with local people, with lots of small children, but all very well dressed prepared for cold weather.
If some of you ever have traveled in the mountain roads, up against Los Andes, you know about the panoramic views and the endless steeps next to the roadside. For us, sailors, this was our first experience and a high ruff sea was much comfortable than this. The road started with curves that were so tight that you almost saw the end of the bus hanging in the air whiles the front driver disappearing around the corner….frightening!
Our bus suddenly stopped! The driver started to shout in Spanish that we did not understand much, at that time. All passengers started to leave and we were just wondering what was happening. Our escort told us that there was a truck in front of us that needed assistance. He allowed us to leave our seats to get out of the bus. In front of us there was an old transport truck full with animals that had been pushed back on the lorry, for that reason and the steep road up worth and had lifted the front of the truck, hanging up in the air! Without the possibility to remain the weight and continue, up the road. The guy in the driving seat was shouting to all of us to help him. It was a strange sight!! The people on the road just started to pull and clime up on the truck, to even the weight, also pushing the animals forward. Finally the lorry was standing firm again on the road, the driver waived at all of us and drove away. All aboard, shouted our bus driver, it was all over and done! Without more serious incidences, finally we arrived to the train station in the town of Los Andes, 850 meters above sea level.
The train was covered by wood panels on the outside walls, the other parts made of steel, needed some painting. There were only 3 wagons, for the reason of the climbing we had to make. Another adventure started….
When we had settled inside one of the wagons, our escort told us that he had finished his task, as the train was going direct to Argentina, but he also told us that we had to pay for his services!
Once again I got angry and disappointed when he asked for money. I told him very clearly that he cannot fool us by his trick and again referred to the Swedish Embassy. He finally shook his head and left us. We were free….at last!
Our train whistled and started to move, up against the hillside of the mountain of Aconcagua. After one hour, it started to be freezing inside the wagon, there was no heating system! That’s why everybody was so well dressed with blankets and hats….
We, coming from our ship and only wearing jeans and t-shirts!
Our first stop was at the town of Portillo de Chile, now at 2,867 meters above sea level! The town was covered by snow!
After asking the Porter on the train how long the stop will last, one of my friend left the train to find something that could warm us up, we were ice could! When he arrived back onboard with 3 lit. Of Rum and 1 lit. of Coca Cola, we asked him what kind of shopping he had made? He told us that the price of 1 Coke was the same as 3 bottles of Rum, period! So when the train started again, we started our party, also inviting people around us. We finally had a good time.
When I looked up on our left hand side the top of Aconcagua had just been visible. It was a breath taking view, with the white snow and clouds surrounding the mountain, fantastic!
The scenario changed when we arrived at the border town Los Caracoles (3,176 m.) an ugly looking place. Maybe they had named the town, because of the time getting there?
The border control went smoothly this time, Thanks!
After a while our train started going down the slopes, leaving the massive mountain range behind us.
I woke up, when we were going for full speed at the flat land of Las Pampas, Argentina. The climate had changed to hot and sunny, what a relive!
Our destination was the town of Mendoza, were we had planned to make a few days brake on our journey.
Downtown Mendoza, was at that time almost like “wild west” town in southern US. Wooden houses surrounded by “dirt” streets. We found a hotel in a street corner and finally got our bed to sleep in; it had been over a week, without a good night sleep. This same evening in the hotel we found out how friendly the local people were, we had an invitation to a Ranch the next day!
The family who invited us had over 500ha of land, with lots of cattle, horses and a private wine yard!
I had one of my best T-bone steaks ever, made over a huge BBQ at the farm, but the owner told me that the meat came from the local butcher in town and not from his cattle.
This was good living!
Next time, will meet in Buenos Aries!
